Technical Alpinism

The trick is to adapt your ambitions to the conditions prevailing at the time and take the best of what the mountain has to offer. Of course you can time your visit to plan to get certain routes; with global warming there’s no doubt that the season is now earlier, but equally the weather often springs surprises too. Flexibility is the key.

I really enjoy my technical alpine weeks, as it’s how I originally started operating in the Alps in the 80’s. I’m still discovering new places and great routes every season, often in the company of long standing regular clients who have become friends over the years.

You may have a specific type of climbing in mind, even a particular route that you’ve always fancied a crack at: whatever it is I’ll be delighted to be along there with you.

Here’s an example of a typical Technical Alpinism week, which took place last July and was certainly one of my most flexible! 1:1 with a private client who I have climbed with for many years now, so have had the pleasure of seeing his technique and horizons expand each year.

Go to the Technical Alpine Gallery for supporting images.

• Day 1: a final day of good weather forecast in Chamonix before the onslaught of a cold front followed by 3 days of unstable weather. We take the first lift up the Argentiere cable car, walk round towards the Droites and do the North Couloir of the Pointe de Gigord, a PD snow slope with a technical finish
• Day 2: Drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel all the way to St Moritz: A phone call while we are lunching in Pontresina in the sunshine reveals that it is lashing with rain in Chamonix. We take the horse drawn carriage and then walk for an hour to the Tschierva hut.
• Day 3: A warm up on the Piz Morterasch North ridge, a pleasnt little PD, and back to the Tschierva hut.
• Day 4: Traverse the Biancograt on the Piz Bernina, the most easterly 4000m peak in the Alps, over to the Marco e Rosa hut in Italy. I can honestly say that this route was the best AD of its type I have done anywhere. An awesome day!
• Day 5: Traverse the Piz Palu from West to East in quite blustery conditions. A Scottish experience except that we were in the sun… Sleep in the Diavolezza hut – well – more like a hotel, with private rooms, en suite shower and waiter service at dinner.
• Day 6: We both feel that we can’t top the last few days, and agree to end on a high, so take the cable car and train back to the car in Pontresina and drive back to Chamonix, where the weather is just starting to pick up again after being pants for most of the week. A total winner of a week!