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Noelle Godfrey
Friday 12 November 2010 1:12:50 am
Hi Andy
I have a gear question if you don't mind? As part of a winter rack, what selection of ice screws (ie how many and what sizes) would you advise taking for a trip to Scotland for say grade III/IV climbs at somewhere like Bein Udlaidh? I've booked to go to Rjukan early in January which I'm really looking forward to, but then a bit later in the winter I'm planning a trip to Scotland with a friend to do some stuff by ourselves so I want to take some ice screws to get some practise in Norway before the two of us are let loose on our own.
thanks
Noelle
Andy Perkins
Friday 12 November 2010 12:31:43 pm
Hi Noelle
It all depends on alot of factors, especially with the fickleness of Scottish conditions. I usually carry very few and rely more on rock pro. Last year was a bit of an exception. However, assuming a route with a lot of ice (by Scottish standards), I would probably take 6 screws (8 at the absolute maximum) , mostly short (12cm) but with a couple of medium (17cm). Rjukan on the other hand is a different matter. 10 to 12 if you were leading yourselves, with most in the medium length and one long (22cm) for doing Abalakov anchors). BD Express are probably the best from ease of penetration, but you may find the Grivel Helix easier to handle with gloves and the big hanger makes them easier to start in hard ice. I use a mix of both.
Hope that helps.
All the best, and have a good winter. May your placements be good and never bottom out!
