May - the best time in Chamonix
It's very strange, but the quietest time of the year in Chamonix is also one of the best. I was up doing some alpinism from the Helbronner lift last week, and conditions were just great.
The south facing rock was all dry - it's no coincidence that the Catherine Destivelle film was shot on the Grand Capucin at this time of year. I spoke to a French guide who had just done the North face of the Tour Ronde and reckoned the conditions were great for both climbing and skiing. The face had been skied the day before (if 55 degree stuff is your cup of tea!). Not only that, but the weather in the valley is great for rock climbing too. All the crags are dry, so loads of quality rock is ready to be sampled.
The downsides? No huts apart from the Cosmiques are open, and the only uplift is the Midi and the Montenvers railway on the Cham side, and Hlebronner over in Italy. But if long approach walks an unguarded huts are your thing, then there are endless possibilities. Even if not, there's still loads to do from day hits from the Midi.
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